Taditional Korean Meal. Raw Stingray Anyone?

                So today, I went with friends to a traditional Korean restaurant. Now, living in Korea, one may think that all of the restaurants (being Korean) are traditional, but this place serves a special set menu of Korean delicacies. Walking past the garden through the wooden doors, we were greeted by women in hanbok, customary Korean dress. They led us through the old-fashioned house to our own private room where we removed our shoes and sat down on colorful silk pillows. The courses on the seasonal menu range from around $25-$100. We selected the $50 course for three people and let the epic gastronomies commence!

                First, we were served janchi guksu or “wedding soup” consisting of noodles with thinly sliced egg and seaweed in a mild broth. This is a simple but delicious dish; one of my favorites. After that, the plates just kept coming. We were served fried blowfish, raw spiced stingray, sea cucumber (supposedly good for the skin), crab, abalone, seafood soup with burnt rice, raw salmon in a delectable mayonnaise sauce, potato puree, jellyfish and vegetables, eggplant stuffed with a blend of chicken, vegetables, and tofu; then duck, beef rib, fish roe, prawns, octopus, etc. It seemed endless. Our entire table was covered in plates and dishes of varying sizes. Just when we thought our stomachs might burst, our server gently poked her head into our room and asked if we were ready for our shiksa. I thought she couldn’t be serious because that word means “meal” and we clearly had eaten enough for an army. But no no, that is not the Korean way. In Korea, after you eat…you eat. All of those dishes are not considered the main meal. Rice is real food and the most important part of the diet.

                The destruction was cleared from the table and we were then served hot seaweed soup along with our rice, doenjang jjigae “fermented soybean soup”, various vegetables that were bitter, tangy, and salty, and kimchi “fermented spicy cabbage”; the national dish of Korea. (Hmm, fermented soybean, fermented cabbage, I think I’m beginning to sense a theme here.) Finally, we were treated to grapes and apple slices along with bori shikye for dessert. Shikye is a sweet drink usually made with rice, but bori shikye is the equivalent only with bits of barley settled at the bottom instead. After sampling so many flavors and textures, it was quite refreshing and palate-cleansing.

                Even though the meal was a bit expensive, it was still worth it for a unique one-time experience. None of the dishes were completely off-putting either. The crab was quite salty and the blowfish left something to be desired, however the abalone was outstanding as well as the raw salmon. Our server was also incredibly sweet and attentive. She kept apologizing for her lack of English, but we all thought she was wonderful, and with the help of an electronic dictionary we communicated quite well. The only problem with these kinds of places is that they are usually remote. I would suggest a taxi to and from the restaurant. But before catching a ride, you may want to walk off your meal while enjoying the beautiful mountains and fresh air.     

A Monk's Life

Where do I begin? I feel as if I have been away for weeks rather than three days (not even). I suppose living in a temple as a monk can make a person forget the concept of time. This sense of calm and peace still lingers with me, and I’m savoring every moment. I will try my best to cultivate and grow this feeling throughout my life. 

6th Century stone Buddha carving

View from under the Buddha at dawn

All of this was brought about by a program that allows you to live at a temple called Golgulsa for as many days as you like. Some of the non-monks I met have been living there for over a year studying Buddhism and/or the ancient art of Sunmudo. It combines Yoga, Qigong, Martial Arts, and Zen meditation in a unique art form that supposedly harmonizes the mind, body, and spirit in such a way to attain enlightenment. I was fortunate to not only watch amazing Sunmudo demonstrations but actually participate in classes myself which were not easy. Even though this aspect is unique to Golgulsa, it wasn’t the reason why I decided to go there.

Sunmudo practitioner from France

For me, I went alone, wanting to delve deeper into the rich culture of Buddhism and meditation and experience it firsthand. Golgulsa is a member of the Korean Jogye Order of Mahayana Buddhism. This is the largest sect in Korea and also the strictest. Some monks who were visiting actually were married with families, but this is not the case for the Jogye Order. And as part of the social and cultural history of Korea (and other countries), female nuns are still subservient to monks. Although the Buddha said that gender is really irrelevant because the body is a shell (which we’ve been born into an infinite number of times in both male and female forms) and thus enlightenment can be attained by anyone, including lay people. So this “separate but equal” treatment of women in Buddhism is merely the product of cultural trends supplanted onto Buddhist philosophy and doctrine. That being said, I choose to see Buddhism in its pure form for my own study and use, which is why I didn’t go all feminist-crazy on the monks. 

Shrine in the main temple

Morning chanting at 4:30am

Sunrise meditation view

Walking meditation

I just allowed the experience to be what it was; an incredible opportunity for personal growth and learning. The location was breathtakingly beautiful. I will never forget waking up at 4am and hiking up a massively steep hill to attend the morning chanting service followed by a meditation overlooking the forest canopy as the sun rises. Just perfect. All you could hear were the sounds of birds chirping, the gentle rustle of the wind through the branches, and silence. Even with the backdrop of nature, that silence was empty and profoundly all-encompassing. I felt so calm and relaxed the whole time, just letting go and being in the moment. The landscape invites a meditative atmosphere. The rock wall next to the main temple houses twelve alcoves with statues and shrines as well as the only cave temple in Korea. I performed my 108 Bows for Buddha’s Birthday in that space. At the top of the mountain there is a large Buddha jutting from the rock face which was carved in the 6th Century Silla Dynasty. Gazing upon the tranquil visage of the Buddha invites everyone to relax their mind and just chill. 

The cave temple

Inside the cave temple where I did the 108 Bows

Buddha statues in alcoves everywhere

Fortunately, I had enough free time to explore the temple grounds and fit in some personal reading and meditation which was lovely. Meals were strictly vegetarian and for the most part quite delicious. It was the same breakfast, lunch, and dinner, but it was yummy and healthy so no complaints here! Also, we were treated to “tea with a monk” after lunch on Sunday. It was very interesting to ask him what some of the difficulties of monastic life are and hear his story of why he became a monk. It makes you realize that people enter that lifestyle for many different reasons. Though the important thing to remember is that they are all trying to better themselves and their minds and spread that peace to others.  

Monday was spent in preparation for the afternoon ceremony and performance in honor of Buddha’s Birthday. It is one of the biggest holidays in Korea (and many other Buddhist countries) which follows the Lunar Calendar so the celebration falls on a different day every year. I helped carry paper lotus lanterns up the giant hill to the temple where they were hung, shucked the hulls from bean sprouts, and assisted in manning the donation box and the pinning-on-of-flowers for visitors paying their respects. 

Preparations for Buddha's Birthday

Paper lanterns

Special Buddha's Birthday ceremony

Prayers during the ceremony

People were so friendly and seemed to enjoy our (aka the foreigners) company, especially the old ladies. First of all, I’ve never seen so many metal teeth in my life! Gold, silver, Kanye West would be jealous! These ajummas (Aunties) with their curly perms, bedecked grilles, and completely mismatched floral wardrobes also had the kindest smiling faces. I literally choked up when I saw the beaming smile coming from a wrinkled old woman who clearly was missing an eye (and several teeth) as I pinned on a flower, bowed, and thanked her for her donation. It was such a simple and wonderful moment when I felt a loving connection to a perfect stranger. I didn’t know her but was filled with such compassion for her. All life is precious and eventually comes to an end. That is what I think of when I see the elderly (and there are many in Korea), and it reminds me to truly savor every moment because it won’t last. “This too shall pass.”

As my three day and two night respite from time and memory came to an end, I thanked the universe for my life and the experience I was able to enjoy and learn from. I will cherish every second. That means carrying that momentum and awareness with me back into reality where I’ll really need it. Now when I wake up at six I think, “The monks have been up since 3am. They’ve already finished their chanting and meditation and will soon have breakfast.” They really can accomplish so much more by getting up that early. I too loved the feeling of being awake at such an early hour while the rest of the world was sleeping. It’s like knowing a secret. There is such a fleeting stillness that exists only to dissolve with the rising of the sun. Grabbing hold of those moments; sitting right in the middle of it; that is living. I love life!

A Personal Effect

It is difficult to tell the effect you truly can have on a person. Most times you’ll never know how deeply you have touched someone’s life. All you can do is live happily and completely, being compassionate to everyone and supporting them when they need it. However, I had the fortune of experiencing this effect first-hand the other day while talking with a friend at a coffee shop.

We were discussing future dreams and goals. I told her about my plan to become an art history professor and live in Japan and France someday. She is getting married soon to a man who became a dentist because it pays well, but now finds the job fails to live up to his own dreams. He wanted to be an astronomer but followed his parent’s orders instead. My friend became a science teacher, despite her own parent’s attempts to divert her attention to math. It was a more difficult path, but she chose it because that was what she truly wanted. She didn’t compromise. But now, she wishes to live in other countries and see the world and experience how other people live their lives. With her upcoming marriage, those dreams seem like less and less of a reality as she begins to feel the weight of societal and familial pressures.

So hearing my dream of travel and adventure unexpectedly touched a chord within her, and before I knew it, I could see tears welling up in her eyes. I had no idea that my words would have such a profound effect. It was such an emotionally charged and surprising moment that left me feeling deeply touched as well. It made me realize that one word, one sentence, can dramatically change the thoughts and feelings of another.  At that time, it didn’t matter our age, what country we are from, what language we speak, or what our race is. The only thing that counted was that we shared something special together; we made a connection on a human level. No bullshit. No stereotypes. Just two people having a moment of mutual understanding and admiration.

There have been times in Korea when I have felt I am not effective with my job. I felt that the children I teach aren’t really learning anything from me. But after this experience, I think that is no longer true. Just because one cannot always witness a response like the one in my friend does not mean it never happens. Her reaction has inspired me to recognize that my time here is not just about a job, about teaching English. It’s about the connections and interactions I have with other people. Sharing other people’s pain, hopes, joys, failures and many more are the real purpose of my journey here (and to any country I visit for that matter). That to me is the point of life; to have the privilege of many experiences alone and with others; to enjoy all aspects of life both good and bad; to truly live in this world and not just watch it pass by.

Even as I write this I am gripped with a feeling I can’t describe. Like I’m on the verge of crying and laughing, but I’m not sure which one to choose. I think it might be ok to pick both. Before I came to Korea I had a feeling that there was something waiting for me here to discover. I think I found out what that is.

Korea Has Tamed the Beast!

This past Friday, I mustered up the courage to get my hair “magic permed”. Here, whether you’re going for a straight or curly look, everything is called a perm. In my case I went for the straightening treatment. I am fairly certain it was the same process I had done when I lived in Japan two years ago. My hair was not poker straight nor did it dry that way, but the frizz was gone and it became much more manageable than the lion’s mane I had to deal with before.

This time I went in to a salon near my apartment after work at 5:30pm. About four hours later I emerged looking fab with super straight, super long hair. Honestly, I have had many different hair styles in my life (short, long, medium, bangs, no bangs, curly, straight, etc.), but it has never been this long before. Lately, my hair’s unruly nature made me sweep it up in a bun or messy ponytail, so I guess I didn’t realize how long it had gotten.

All Diana Ross after a blow dry (pre magic perm)

The poor salon workers must have had a heart-attack when they saw all my hair. It really has a life of its own, like the plant in Little Shop of Horrors going “feed me!” I was asked twice if I had a perm (curly) but I assured them it was natural, to which they responded in a chorus of oooohs and aaaaaahs. It was like they honestly couldn’t believe a person could possess curly hair like that naturally, as if everyone on the planet has straight hair. Oh Korea. Well, I certainly made them work. To be fair, I told them I didn’t have an appointment and asked if I could still have it done that day. They could have had me come back in the morning, but hey, they went for it.

There was a moment of panic in the beginning where I thought, “What if they think my foreign locks are so alien that they leave the chemical on longer than usual and I walk out with broken hair that’s falling out in clumps?!?!?” Even though I have a TON of hair, each individual strand is medium to fine, so a chemical as strong as this could be quite damaging if done wrong. Thank goodness I was in the experienced hands of the Korean equivalent of Vidal Sassoon (not really) but it all worked out. I had three people blow drying my hair at one point and it still took about 15min. I also had two people flat-ironing inch sections of my hair which took FOREVER! And I mean forever. Imagine the kid in the movie The Sandlot repeating the words “forever” over and over. Seriously, it took about two hours just for the flat-ironing.

"magic"

In the end though, my sore bum was a small price to pay for having silky smooth, manageable hair. And I am thankful to say the price hardly left a dent in my wallet. In the states, a treatment like this would have set me back at least $500. Some places charge up to $1000 which is absolutely ridiculous. In Korea, I only had to shell out a hundred bucks. Can’t beat it! If there is anyone out there with hair like mine considering this process, I say go for it! Who wants to waste hours of their life fixing their hair? Thank you Korea, for saving me the time and money. Thank you.

Savor the Moment

Last Friday I was fortunate enough to go on a hiking trip to 보경사 (Bogyeongsa Temple) with my co-workers from school. We left work early and headed about an hour outside of Pohang to this temple sanctuary nestled at the base of the mountain far far away from the chemical clouds of Posco.
We first had to make our way through the small town lined with quaint shops and cherry blossoms. Even though the weather was a bit cold and rainy, it couldn’t dampen the beauty of this place. As I crossed the first gate onto temple grounds, I felt a calm and peaceful feeling wash over me. It might sound hippie, but nature is my first love, and I always feel one when I am in and surrounded by it. I couldn’t soak it up enough; the fresh air, the beautiful scenery, the feeling of blood pumping through my veins as I worked my way up the mountain. I felt so alive.

There are several waterfalls at Bogyeongsa, and we were able to see a few. The first was a bit small, but made for great photos, and I loved the flowers that were clinging to the rock everywhere. Their bright purple buds made a great contrast to the grey sky and cliff wall. It was difficult though to observe all of the scenery because I constantly had to watch my footing on the trail. Most spots had no railing, so one slip and you’re toast. Needless to say I had to really focus until we got to the next set of waterfalls. Legend has it that dragons sleep in this part of the mountain. I didn’t see any but next time if I come across them you’ll be the first to know. The view in this section was absolutely stunning, and the size of the cliff face was breathtaking. There was a bridge that led to another waterfall tucked away in the corner. Really, the pictures speak for themselves.

Monks meditate here

On our way back down we stopped to investigate a giant boulder with many small pebbles stacked on top in little piles. One of my co-workers told me that I would have good luck if I could balance a stone on top of a particularly haphazard pile. It was tricky but I did it. Afterwards he told me to put my hands together (Buddhism-style) and pray. While I was sending out the good vibes, I had for just a moment an otherworldly experience. I felt completely in sync and in tune with the universe. Time stopped and everything was perfect. I kind of didn’t want to move but I knew we needed to head back, so I gave my thanks and finished the hike.

Before

Juk

After

We ended our little adventure with a fantastic dinner of boiled chicken (that actually tasted like chicken) and of course all the Korean side dishes. I also had 죽 (Juk) for the first time. It’s a rice porridge usually eaten when one is sick, but wow was it good! Most Korean food has very strong flavors and spices, but this was so subtle and delicate. It gave me the same feeling I get when eating chicken noodle soup; comfort. That was the cherry on the cake and with that, we headed home. I will definitely be back to explore more of beautiful Bogyeongsa.