Stepping Back in Time in Gyeongju

Last weekend I went on a trip to 경주 (Gyeongju) to see the cherry blossoms and explore on bike. At first, I was a bit nervous because I hadn’t ridden a bike since childhood, but they have that expression “it’s like riding a bike” for a reason, so thankfully it all worked out. As the former capital of the 신라 Silla Kingdom, Gyeongju has been labeled a “museum without walls” and it really lives up to the name. There are temples, tombs, and remnants of fortress walls strewn across the entire area. If you are looking for the closest Lotte Department Store or movie-theater this is not the place for you.

In the morning, I rented a bike for the day for a mere 10,000won (about $10). No one wrote down my name. I didn’t get a ticket of some kind. I paid and the guy just gave me the bike. Americans and the South Africans I was with immediately thought this very odd, because in our respective countries those bikes would be gone, stripped, and sold for parts. In Korea though, it seems like everything is on the honor system. This theory was proved correct again later in the day when a guy from our group forgot his sunglasses in a public restroom. We went back for them about an hour and a half later, and they were actually still there. We were all amazed, but could still believe it because it’s Korea. That’s not to say everyone should go leaving their valuables in public places, but it shows that most people follow a certain moral code; if it doesn’t belong to me, I leave it alone. Every single person who went in that bathroom said, “Not mine.” and just walked out.

Aside from that cultural nugget of information, it was awesome to explore the city on bike. I saw cherry blossoms lining the streets everywhere, delicately shedding their petals with each gust of wind. In only a few days they will all be green again like nothing happened. I was also able to see an open air museum displaying burial mounds and one enclosing the tomb of a king. It was refreshingly relaxing to wander along the winding path of the park. Many people had the same idea, but the crowds didn’t hamper the view or the experience at all. It was like everyone was moving together in their own space, like bubbles gliding past in the same bathtub.

After the museum, I made a stop at 첨성대 (Cheomseongdae Observatory) to see the “oldest stone relic in the east”. It was used as an astronomical observatory during the reign of Queen 선덕(Seon-Deok). The park featured a gorgeous contrast of light pink cherry blossoms and bright yellow rape flowers. The gentle breeze kept the hot sun from becoming too stifling. The weather was truly perfect. My friend and I became part of some of the photo shoots that were going on in the field. Apparently, two foreigners looking sporty sparked the interest of a few Korean photographers. Once we saw them snapping away we couldn’t resist giving them a few poses!

Once our Vogue shoot was over we returned our bikes and walked to 보문 (Bomun) Lake and Resort, which was quite a hike, but worth every calorie. The beautiful view and cool air rippling off the lake made the trek worthwhile. Unfortunately, our time was almost up so we opted for a taxi to take us back to the bus terminal. I napped for most of the 40min. trip home and was completely exhausted and ready for bed by the time I made it back to my apartment in Pohang. Still, every time I come back from a journey, Pohang feels more and more like home. I love all of the weekend excursions, but it’s nice to come back home and relax…until the next adventure.  
 

Ulsan! Ulsan! Ulsan!

Wow, I’m totally losing track of the days! It’s already the 16th of this month. Before I blink again May will take over. Another awesome weekend has come and gone. I was in 울산 (Ulsan) with my friend Cory and his buddies Ronnie and Chuck (two cool guys). First, I met Cory at the bus station, and we took one down to Ulsan, ate 삼겹살 (samgyupsal) for dinner (delish) and let the games begin!

We had coffee at Angels-in-Us (yes, that’s the real name) and met his friends afterwards. We headed to a bar and played darts and enjoyed a beer. Next we went to another cool bar and had drinks and just chatted. We also met up with their Korean friend Jason. Then we hit up a 노래방(noraebang) for a few hours, drank more beer and had some good fried chicken. After that, we caught a cab at around 4:30am back to Ronnie and Chuck’s place. I slept on their fairly comfy leather couch.

We slept in a bit and then had a delicious breakfast of real pancakes and eggs with ham and good coffee. It almost felt like I was in America for a second. Almost. Then we headed out to 시내 (downtown) where everything you could ever want/need exists in only a few short blocks. I had to buy pants so we hit up a very tiny Uniqlo in Lotte Department Store where I found three great pairs of jeans. And I was pleasantly surprised at my size. I was a 28/29 when I was in Japan, so I tried on 27’s just to see. I was shocked to discover they were a little loose, so I went one size down and they fit perfectly! Woo! Then I stopped in Zara where I found two pairs of dress chino’s (black and teal) and a cool t-shirt that has a skull with flowers/fruit in it. It goes perfectly with the teal pants. Nice!

Then we stopped and had the best Indian food of my life at this small relatively new place right down the street. We ordered the mushroom curry and chicken tikka masala and three different types of nan (regular, butter, and garlic). Everything was unbelievably good and we all ate in silence, savoring every bite. Wow.
After that, we went back home and Chuck’s sister and her two kids came over and we all had hamburgers. Again, almost felt like America for a second. I can’t believe I ate two, but they were small patties and oh so good! We played a dance game on the play station and after his sister left, we played a fun charades/guessing-type game. Jason came too and the five of us had a good time. After he left and we finished the game, we downloaded and watched “Don’t Be a Menace to South Central While Drinkin Your Juice in the Hood”. It was my first viewing which I found pretty funny.

Since we were all in a jovial mood I showed the guys my favorite clip of Will Ferrell bloopers on youtube and they thought it was hysterical. The part where he has that blonde wig at the car dealership talking about his “plums” had us all in tears. After a good laugh, we went to sleep with full bellies at a reasonable 1:30am and slept in until 10:30am.

The next morning we hung out a bit more, did a voice recording of a children’s story that Ronnie offered us to do for his school, and went out to see the city one more time. We took the bus back and it gave us an amazing tour of the city. Everything is built up around the major river that cuts through. It’s wide and clean and there were so many people out along its banks walking and enjoying themselves. The weather was beautiful with a warm breeze. I think spring is finally here! The cherry blossoms were in bloom and the sky was a gorgeous blue.

After walking around and exploring, we stopped at a small place to get lunch. We ordered a ton of food; two rolls of 김밥 (kimbap), 김치 볶음밥 (kimchi bokkeumbap), 김치 찌개 (kimchi jjigae), 돌솥 비빔밥 (dolsot bibimbap), and 순대 (sundae). The shop ladies were confused at first because they saw there were only three of us, but we assured them it was what we wanted. Everything was so delicious and filling, and the grand total was only $20. You just can’t beat the cheap prices here!
We stopped to get coffee next and then walked around the main area. I had to stop by the accessories shop and came out with a ton of great stuff for super cheap. I got several pairs of earrings, a bracelet, a necklace, two phone charms, two hair ties with stuff on them, two rings, and two pairs of socks (all for around $30). Can’t beat it.

Next, we filmed some improve skit videos on the street. They were ok, improve is tough and I’m new to the game, but I know the more I do it, the better I’ll get. It was fun to be creative like that though. After a last stop at the dept. stores, we called it a day and said our goodbyes at the bus terminal. It was an awesome weekend and Ulsan is a great city. I look forward to going back to see its national parks and ancient petroglyphs. I can’t wait to go back. There are definitely still other places I’d like to see, but Ulsan was really really cool and I’m so glad I went. Just another city to check off the list. Check!